In Focus: Piedmont, Italy

There is perhaps no greater wine producing region in Italy than Piedmont, or Piemonte in the local dialect. Nestled at the base of the Alps above the Ligurian coast, this area is famous for both the quantity and quality of its wines. Variations in soil, microclimate and altitude lead to a dizzying array of styles, and the gamut runs from the feather-light and delicate Moscatos - perfect for a sip on the veranda on a hot summer day, all the way to the velvety and tannic Nebbiolos - a heavenly match for hearty dishes of meat and game. But Italian wine can be confusing, and even the most knowledgeable of winegeeks can get lost in the foggy marshland of local dialects, obscure grape varietals and antiquated labeling systems. Let’s take a closer look at this wonderful region and unlock the secrets of her beauty.

Piemonte is surrounded by mountains. The proximity of the Mediterranean ensures a hot summer, but these are quickly followed by a foggy autumn and a cold, sometimes very harsh winter. This combination of weather, added to the soil types of calcareous marl and sandstone, has created ideal growing conditions for both indigenous and international grape varietals. This variation has also created a jumble of wines listed by area, grape variety and style. How very Italian. The first thing to do is to decipher the label.

Wines from Piemonte are most often listed by either the area, the grape varietal, or a combination of the area and the grape. When both are used this signifies that it is from a smaller and (usually) better area. Without memorizing all it would be impossible to tell the difference, so here are a few of the best regions to look for and their corresponding grapes:

Barolo

Without question the greatest region in Piemonte and possibly all of Italy, Barolo has gone from producing sweet wines until the 1850s, to making unbelievably dry and tannic wines that took decades to mature in the 1960s. Today we have a more approachable product that has an ethereal blend of power, elegance, refinement and texture. A well-made Barolo can be the quintessential expression of wine, at once tarry, perfumed, smoky, earthy, gamey, plush with fruit and all of this tied together with an aroma of roses not found in any other wine on the planet. This is attributed to the famous Nebbiolo grape, a late-ripening varietal that is tough to cultivate to its true expression, but once there, can be unmatched in both power and finesse. Wines from the west side of the commune of Barolo have a tendency to be elegant and perfumed, while the east side produces wines of more power and intensity.

Barbaresco

Another area of high quality Nebbiolo, Barbaresco may not quite match Barolo in intensity or overall quality, but it’s pretty darn close. Nebbiolos from both areas are sold just by the name of the commune, either Barolo or Barberesco, and often include the name of either the grower (marked by the word sorí) or the vineyard (bricco.) This is due to the fact that the variation in the microclimate from hill to hill is so dramatic as to call for special designation.

Alba

Wines from the communes around the town of Alba in the heart of Piemonte come from two main grape varieties: Dolcetto, a soft and dry grape that finishes with a hint of dust, and the more intense and high acid Barbera, a plummy variety and a better choice when young than Nebbiolo. These wines are sold with a combination of the grape varietal and the town, i.e., Barbera D’Alba or Dolcetto D'Alba.

Asti

A veritable torrent of plonk labeled Asti Spumante and intended as a substitute for Champagne has flowed through the years from the hills of Asti to American grocery stores. An argument can be made that without it we wouldn’t have the tasty and diverse selection of Italian wines that we enjoy today. While the term Spumante has been dropped, the ubiquitous Martini & Rossi flows on, just waiting to fool unsuspecting wine buyers into thinking that this is not only good, but also all that Asti has to offer. Don’t be fooled. Wines sold as Moscato D’Asti, made from the delicate and fragrant Moscato grape, can be the best wine that you have ever had on a hot summer day. Light, fruity, perfumed, slightly sparkling (or frizzante, as the Italians say) and just a touch sweet, Moscato can be a wonderful aperitif, or just a bit of lovely to share with friends on a warm summer evening.

Asti also produces fine examples of Barbera, Dolcetto and Grignolino, a red grape known for its fresh cherry flavors and light body. These wines are sold by the grape varietal and the region, as in Grignolino D'Asti. Another interesting wine from Asti is Freisa D’Asti. Similar to Lambrusco it is a fizzy, somewhat sweet red wine made from the light Freisa grape.

The Best of the Rest

For other great expressions of the Nebbiolo look to the smaller communes of Carema and Gattinara in the northern reaches of Piemonte. While a little more rare, these areas can produce wines of distinction, sold simply as Carema or Gattinara, but without the hefty price tags of Barolo and Barbaresco. Nebbiolos from Alba, Roero and Langhe just south of Barolo are also known for their fragrance. Monferrato, just to the north of Asti, is known for nice Grignolinos and Dolcettos. One last fun red is the Brachetto D’Acqui, from the Acqui region just below Asti. This fizzy red is prized as a dessert wine for its perfumed frothiness, a style not seen much in the U.S. but a true Italian treat.

Though Piemonte is dominated by the hearty reds of Barolo and Barbaresco, wonderful whites are produced as well. Look to the east of Barolo for the popular whites of Gavi made from the green Cortese grape. Gavis boast a pleasant acidity and notes of citrus and fresh grass. The DOC of Langhe produces very nice Chardonnay as well as Arneis, a local variety with a similarity to Pinot Blanc when well made. These whites are labeled with both the name of the grape and the area of production.

A rare and special wine is the Loazzolo, a dessert wine made from Moscato grapes that are harvested late and then dried on racks before fermentation. The drying process decreases the amount of water in the grape thus concentrating the aromas and flavors. The end result is an intense wine with hints of raisins, honey and tropical fruits. Delicious!

The magic of Piemonte lies in her diversity. So many styles, and so much beauty in so many bottles. A sampling of Piemontese wine could satisfy nearly every style of wine to be had, most of this coming from the tiny areas surrounding the towns of Alba and Asti. Whether planning an event or just searching for a nice bottle to share on a quiet evening, look to Piemonte to deliver something special. Chances are you won’t be disappointed.

Comments

0 user comments. Add your comment for this article.

Winegeeks  |  Articles  |  Wines  |  Resources  |  Discussion  |  Members  |  About  |  RSS