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Wines for the Thanksgiving ExtravaganzaBy E. S. Brown on 11.10.2006 |
The pumpkins have been pulled from the patch. Football is on the T.V. The cider has been mulled and the bird is in the oven. The only thing remaining between you and a tryptophan coma is for the family to gather, the wine to be uncorked and the feast to commence. But which wine? If your family is anything like mine there will be an awful lot of different flavors and aromas scattered about the Thanksgiving Day table in search of a spot on an already crowded plate, so how do we narrow down which wine to serve with the Thanksgiving feast?
The truth is you can’t, so there is no point in reading the rest of this article. Still here, huh? Ok, so there are a few simple guidelines to follow when selecting the wine for the feast of all feasts, and there are some wonderful wines that go together with Tom Turkey like mashed potatoes and gravy.
Let’s start with the mother of all wine and food matching guidelines: Like flavors to like flavors. So if your food is going to be light and citrusy then you are going to want a wine that is the same. This is the basis for the most classic of wine and food pairings, such as Coq au Vin and red Burgundy, Sauvignon Blanc with vegetables or fresh goat cheese. Even Port wine and chocolate. The next most important thing to remember is the weight of the wine and/or dish. A massive three pound steak will leave a light wine lost in its wake, and the same will happen to a delicate and light entrée matched with a hefty bottle of Cabernet. For much more on this subject please visit our series of articles on Pairing Food and Wine.
Sparkling Wines and Champagne
What better way to start off a great family gathering than some bubbly? No matter what your preference in potatoes or your flair for the dramatic stuffing, a little Champagne before hand can be a great way to get everyone in the mood. But sparkling wines aren’t just for the warm up, they can be a wonderful accompaniment to a wide range of foods, including those found around that certain Thursday in November.
Roederer Estate Anderson Valley Brut
Sweet and Savory Appetizer Puffs
Shrimp and Crab Mold
Gruet Gilbert Grande Reserve 1999
Citrus-Grilled Jumbo Scallops
Stuffed Turkey Breast with Pears, Chestnuts and Rosemary
The old standby with Champagne and sparkling wines is always caviar, but that may not be in everyone’s price or taste range, so here we have two easy appetizers that pair wonderfully with the Roederer Sparkler from Anderson Valley. The chutney, cheese and dried figs in the puffs are all reminiscent of the sparkling wine. The second appetizer with the shrimp and crab mold is a more classical combo for a sturdy and flavorful sparkling wine.
With the excellent vintage Gruet a more bold approach can be taken. The elegance and expressiveness of the wine is a tasty match to the savory and succulent turkey. Pears, chestnuts and savory herbs, now where have I heard those items before? Oh yeah, they can all be found in a vintage Champagne or Sparkling wine. I had to throw the scallops in there as well because I think that they too would pair beautifully with the Gruet. Hey, not everyone likes turkey.
White Wines
One of the great attributes of wine in general is that there is a style or weight in some wine out there that is just perfect for the dish about to be served. This is especially true with white wines as a sweet and savory dish like candied yams is absolutely wonderful when given a crisp German Kabinett Riesling to dine with. On the other hand a buttery Chardonnay can be a great match with Turkey if there isn’t too much oak in the wine. The green bean casserole may cry out for a grassy Sauvignon Blanc. You get the idea.
Geil Bechtheimer Rosengarten Riesling Kabinett
Baked Sweet Potatoes
Domaine Fournier Sancerre Vieilles Vignes
Green Bean Casserole
David Bruce Chardonnay Santa Cruz Mountains
Apple-Almond Stuffed Turkey
Don’t be afraid to do a little cross training with your wines. The Riesling will work just as well with Turkey and remains one of my favorite choices for the dinner table at any time. The Sancerre works with a wide variety of foods from fish to vegetables to fresh cheeses. With Chardonnay the key is to avoid the oak. For this reason I usually turn to the great white Burgundies as many California Chardonnays disqualify themselves in the oak category. Blame it on the Russian judge. He always gives the U.S. a poor score in the Olympics.
Rosés
You had better believe that Rosés have their own category here. An excellent dry Rosé from the south of France remains one of the greatest of wines when wondering what goes well with a perfectly done turkey. The combination of fruit, light tannins, crisp acidity, savory herbs (for all of you Bandol fans out there) and earthy aromas fall right in step with the herby and buttery qualities of Roast Turkey. Rosés often will match up well with the stuffing to boot.
La Bastide Blanche Bandol Rosé
Castella di Ama Toscana IGT Rosato
Deep-Fried Turkey
Baked Ham with Cumberland Sauce
Cranberry Mould
Forgot about the ham, didn’t you? My Grandfather didn’t dig on the bird, so every holiday we had ham as well. A nice Rosé picks up right where the sorta sweet and sorta savory ham leaves off. And they are both pink, so what’s not to like?
Red Wines
The best bets for your bird are the light and lively reds that can be found all over the world such as Pinot Noir, Dolcetto, Rioja and the fresh and sassy Beaujolais. Lighter red wines can swing both ways with both the light meat and the dark, and the earthy notes often found in these wines mix well with herbs and spices found in both the bird and the stuffing.
If you prefer a heavier red seek thee the savory and earthy qualities found in the Rhône Valley of France. Grenache and Syrah have often been accused of imparting a slightly “gamey” note to the wines they inhabit, perfect for those herbs. Besides, isn’t Turkey a game bird? Maybe not so much anymore.
Albino Rocca Dolcetto d'Alba
Grilled Sage-Stuffed Chicken
Domaine Bruno Clair Aloxe-Corton
Roast Turkey with Molasses Glaze
Château Fortia Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée du Baron
Turkey with Sausage Stuffing
This is by no means an exhaustive list, as there are just as many red wines out there as there are recipes for stuffing. Zinfandels, Chianti and even a nice Domestic Merlot can all have a positive influence on the feast at hand, not that most wines don’t have a positive influence on things. But I digress...
Dessert Wines
I bet you are wondering if this is the part where I try to convince you that a delightful Sauternes will pair beautifully with roast turkey. I do like wine, but be serious. What I am thinking about here are all of those delicious pies, pastries, cookies and other sorts of delectables that come out after everyone has had a chance for the initial wave of “way too full uncomfortableness” to subside.
Warre's Porto LBV 1995
Pumpkin and Praline Pie
Wein-Castel Weber Saulheimer Hölle Silvaner Eiswein
Almond Apricot Tart
Bodegas Toro Albalá Pedro Ximénez Don Gran Reserva
Triple Chocolate Cookies
Desserts and dessert wines are two things that are great both together and apart. Again, the trick here is to match similar flavors, as in the autumn spices in the Port paired with the bitters, cinnamon, nutmeg and clove in the pie. Or the apricots in both the Eiswein and the tart. I have extolled the virtues of the Toro Albala before, but I can’t help it. The stuff is just wonderful, and at less than $20 for a half bottle, your cookies will never be happier. Or your vanilla ice cream. Or just your glass.
Thanksgiving Day is a day to rejoice one’s riches and to be grateful for them, not a day to stress over which wine goes with which dish. There are many combinations, and ultimately whichever wine makes you, your family and your friends happy will be the best choice. But keep these pairings in mind and you are certain to give Thanks for the results. Groan. I am going to give thanks that my jokes haven’t gone nationwide as of yet.
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