Margaine sits on an exposed bed of limestone powder in the Montagne de Reims, an area usually known for rich and robust Pinot Noir-based bubbles. However, the lighter soils make this estate an island of Chardonnay in a sea of red-fruit dominated Champagnes. It is a wine of sheer enjoyment. While sweetness is what usually comes to mind with demi-sec, this wine is unctuous and rich in texture but delightfully dry on the finish. Instead of citrus fruits think of more tropical notes of papaya, guava and mango. Instead of fresh apples think of a delicious baked apple tart. It is rich and seductive on the front end, but then the flesh and open texture funnels into a core of bright acidity, so the wine does not feel heavy or cloying. It is almost easier to compare it to Grand Cru Riesling with bubbles. I can think of nothing better after a full meal in lieu of dessert.